Fendi and Prada at the Milan Fashion Week

Fendi and Prada at the Milan Fashion Week
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Contrast in the romance of feminine pieces layered under the powerful notes of a rustic crocodile coat or matched with sandals towering above thick, military soles vied for ‘crude elegance’, as Miuccia Prada defined her fall-winter 2013 women’s wear collection shown in Milan on Thursday.MILAN FASHION WEEK: PRADA

‘You want to be romantic but you can’t, it’s a forbidden fantasy’, Prada told reporters. ‘This reflects today’s life, where nothing over the top is allowed. You cannot be decadent, modernity forces you to a form of intellectual restriction’ This ‘repression of romanticism’ generated a straightforward mixture of different notes of style as classic elegance met contemporary, sporty vibes, and rustic fabrics rubbed with deluxe animal skins. The combination was effortless with the collection’s defining items donned together to highlight at once the raw feel and refined quality of the outfits. A checked tweed dress bared shoulders with surprising sensuality. Two piece suits – featuring either the collection’s asymmetric skirt or a retro full skirt – had matching jackets with cuffs made of sable, the modern edge and roughness of the ensembles dramatized by the luxurious detail. One of the collection’s most elegant coats was mixed with a brown leather skirt, a black evening gown opening to reveal one shoulder was encrusted with beads but layered over a grey sweater, glamour toned down by the classic daywear staple.

Belts, a recurring theme, were another detail enhancing the contrasting game – a gold belt was used over a sporty leather coat while a brown belt went over a beaded black number.

The palette embraced muted shades – dark brown, grey, powder blue and a grey-blue – all the way to black, different tones of red, pink and statement gold and silver, with checks and bold vertical stripes adding momentum to the ‘endless list of limits’ which generated Prada’s modern elegance for next fall.

And modernity celebrated Fendi’s premiere fur tradition on Thursday with a playful, rock mood. Models walked down the catwalk with fur in their hair, on the arms of eyeglasses and on shoes. They carried the fashion house’s iconic Selleria bags re-dressed in fur – like the Adele 1328, named after the house’s founder and the number of stitches needed to craft it – with dangling stuffed owls, also in fur. Fox fur coats had profiles in eye-popping pink, yellow and orange. Vertical stripes dominated fur coats and skirts – giving a rock edge to traditional luxury.

MILAN FASHION WEEK: PRADASilhouettes were sculpted and minimalist – seen in the wool dresses, soft pants and bi-colour coats, or in the overcoats half in fur and half in wool.

This modern celebration of Fendi’s DNA emerged from the craftsmanship and the mood enveloping different textures – 3D decorations, deluxe leather adorned with funky, multi-colour fur fringes or precious wool doubled in neoprene – overturning the hierarchy of fabrics in one, fresh breath of air.

And those wanting to stay warm next winter sans fur, can turn to Max Mara which invested in a collection inspired by the Bauhaus style of elegance serving function with oversized, architectural silhouettes to rejuvenate its trademark classic style.

Montgomery jackets and coats with sophisticated leather patches and stitching highlighting the round shoulders were voluminous like the fabrics shaping them – cashmere, velvet, or alpaca worked like fur. Cardigans, cocooning bomber jackets or classic, oversized jackets were layered over flowing pants and suits inspired by men’s wear, with an irreverent note lent by the elegant sneakers finishing off the outfits. The layering game was effortless and mostly monochromatic with Max Mara’s signature camel – a predominant note -played against orange, mustard, blue and black. Horizontal stripes and the juxtaposition of different, chunky fabrics gave graphic edge to the ensembles.

ANSA by Elisa Cecchi    MILAN FASHION WEEK: PRADA

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