Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week will feature 71 Runways.
Rooftops may still be frosted with snow when Milan Fashion Week kicks off on February 20, showing Italian womenswear collections for winter 2013-2014.
Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Versace, Marni and Emilio Pucci are familiar names on the doubles list, but Jil Sander is new; a sign that the attention and rave reviews Sander has been getting since her return a year ago to her namesake fashion house is translating into commercial success.
But while runway shows claim the glory and fanfare of media swarms, 60 other clothing presentations will also be made in locations around the city.
In addition, a series of women’s fashion trade fairs are set to overlap Fashion Week – occupying exhibition centres February 23-25 – with White, Super and MIPAP fairs together presenting well over 400 women’s clothing and accessory brands.
City government is getting in on the fashion fest as well, staging two cultural events to coincide with the goings on; a dance performance by the Susanna Beltrami Company called “Estrad’eau” and a runway show of Verdi opera costumes called “Verdissimo”.
Clothing sculptures by Croatian-born illustrator and designer Goran Lelas will grace the “Luna Art” runway show, scheduled the night of February 25, as Fashion Week draws toward a close and polling stations shutter on Italian parliament elections.
A goodly portion of the runway shows can be watched by anybody willing to shiver in the cold, as the runways shows hosted in the Via Mercanti facility; like Simonetta Ravizza, Francesco Scognamiglio, Les Copains, among others – will be broadcast via live streaming on a maxi-screen in Via Dante. Viewers should beware, however, that fashion shows almost always run 30 minutes late. Then again, one can’t be sure, so this edition’s calendar is sure to pose logistical problems for the fashion crowd.
Between new talent and double runs, some shows are scheduled for the same time slot, while others are just 30 or 45 minutes apart.
New Russian phenomenon Sergei Grinko coincides with Marni’s second show, Daniela Grigis is set for the same hour as Prada, and Cividini must face down Jil Sander’s second show – good luck to the upstarts. CNMI President Mario Boselli cut off potential calendar gripes at a Milan presentation, where he roundly chastised fashion houses for bickering over spots on the runway schedule, complaining that he had witnessed an unbelievable scene – between unnamed parties – in his office.
Although the calendar was fixed two years ago, it has not prevented designers from bending other noses out of joint for new positioning. Nevertheless, squeezing eight new designers into the same seven days as ever can’t lead to an easy schedule – even losing a noteworthy newcomer like Uma Wang. In compensation, the debut on the Milanese runway for Fausto Pugliese and Wang Peiyi promise to stir the cockles of avid fashion followers. Pugliese is a rising star among celebrity outfitters, and was tapped in September as the new creative director of Emanuel Ungaro to try to revive the fortunes of the troubled French fashion house. Wang Peiyi has already carved a glamorous reputation for himself in China and sparked global interest through red carpet gowns worn by star Chinese actresses Gao Yuanyuan, Sun Li and Zhou Yun. ANSA by Emily Backus